Great cheese maker, farmer and innovative entrepreneur.

Like so many in the food and farming community I was deeply shocked and saddened to learn of the much too premature death of dairy farmer and cheese maker Dean Wright. He was a true gentleman and an innovative entrepreneur. I will always remember the first time we met Dean and he told us “We live right in the centre of the Food Heartland and it is time we made some cheese”.

After a successful career in the meat industry, Dean Wright decided to start his own business, making cheese with milk from his family’s farm at Ballylisk near Portadown in Co Armagh. Dean’s original idea was to make cheddar, but he was advised that the market was saturated so Dean pioneered his own style of cheese and began manufacturing a range of triple cream cheeses using milk from his own pedigree Friesian herd that graze the grass and clover on the family farm at Ballylisk. 

Cheese making is both an art and a science, and a very difficult and challenging craft to master. Within a short-time Dean had developed the skills and techniques to create three Triple Cream cheeses – the original Ballylisk of Armagh Triple Rose, a variety of the cheese that is washed in Armagh apple juice from Armagh and a blue version. The dairy was expected to launch a soft creamy Brie-style cheese shortly.

Dean’s was a talent that shone brightly and his engaging personality soon won him customers. He launched Ballylisk at the BBC Good Food Show in Belfast and he was soon winning business throughout Ireland as well as with high profile retailers such as Fortnum and Mason and Heritage Cheese in London. His cheese was available at the food lovers’ mecca of Borough Market in London and export sales were achieved in Europe, the Middle East and Asia.

The Ballylisk presentation was always a magnet for visitors to the food pavilion at Balmoral Show where he collaborated with Erin Grove Preserves to make a range of Ballyliskrelishes. Dean was always someone we at Food NI loved to spend time with as his professionalism, intermingled with dry wit, enthusiasm and determination was inspiring. 

When the pandemic hit in March 2020, many businesses, like Ballylisk, lost a huge proportion of their business. With restaurants and hotels closing overnight, high quality food producers suffered. However, with his traditional determination, Dean decided to open a milk delivery service and included other artisan food producers in the doorstep delivery option. This was a lifeline for both local producers and the local community. At the time Dean spoke about being driven by his passion to help those who were particularly vulnerable and shielding. His actions were an inspiration to many. 

None of us expected to hear the news that Dean had passed away on Saturday.  Like many people who strive to help others, Dean probably didn’t know how well he was admired and liked or how much he was respected for what he had achieved. 

In a very short time, Dean became one of Northern Ireland’s artisan food heroes. 

Our sincere condolences go to Dean’s entire family circle. 

It’s July 2020 for the Rare Breed farmers we’re in Larne, Randalstown, and Co Down for this episode, and we see how busy the farmers continue to be despite the restrictions over lockdown in the next episode of ‘RARE BREED – A Farming Year’ on UTV, Tuesday 2^ndMarch.

First off we’re back with Jonny Hanson at Jubilee Farm, outside Larne. It’s a community enterprise owned and worked by its members and volunteers. They produce vegetables, pigs, geese and goats.  Jonny and the vet are tagging piglets. It’s not as easy as it looks, with Jonny remarking, “You have to outthink them!”Sophie, a young volunteer from Larne Grammar, who hopes to be a vet, gives him a hand. 

They then move their attention to the goat herd. They get the full treatment today, with hoof grooming, worming and treatment for flies and lice, all ably carried out by vet Laura Beattie.  Jonny shares his hopes and dreams of one day being able to increase the goat herd, and use them for their milk, as well as meat, but he needs a new barn for that.  After a busy day he comments. “The day went well, with no major drama.” 

It’s a big month for James Alexander, from Randalstown.  With lockdown relaxed he’s now able to run his annual sheep sale. It’s his “favourite day and least favourite day of the year.”  With a whole shed to fill, he has a lot to get ready. He has to sort hundreds of sheep into smaller batches according to size, type and look, and he’s trying to accommodate everyone who may want small or large herds. He’s also put in extra measures including online bidding and temperature checks. But he’s delighted with the quality of the animals this year, and is hopeful of a good sale. 

Despite it being July, Adrian McGowan is thinking about Christmas already! At the farm outside Killinchy,he is working with the Brussel sprout crop. He’s planning ahead to ensure continual supply for hungry customers in Christmas.  They’re just finishing off planting season,which started in March.  He explains the advantages of planting re-raised veg as opposed to straight from seed.  

Adrian is delighted with his workforce, some of whom have been with him for over 20 years as well as some new members to the team, whom he describes as “great young guys, mad keen and very capable.”   He explains the damage that pigeons can do to a crop in the matter of a few days, and how the team do the ‘back breaking work’ of getting rid of weeds which is a ‘constant battle’!  

Adrian tends to look after the shop orders himself, and ‘when the ping comes through, you’ve got to go!’  He quickly gets the shop more of what they need.  He also talks about unusual varieties he’s growing, including Golden Beetroot. 

Back at the Alexander’s, the sheep sale has started. He’s following the lead of the marts and has put in extra measures in line with Covid restrictions, for those people who turn up in person. He says he’ll “leave the auctioneer and the technology to do its job”. The bidding is intense both on line and among the buyers who have turned up in person. The sale goes really well, and despite being “shattered, dizzy and hungry” at the end of it all, James is delighted!

The final stop of the episode takes us back to Co. Down, to Claire Shearer in Comber. Despite there being no competitions this year, there is still plenty to do. She and partner David are disappointed at not being able to show the new foal, and they both miss the competitions as “that’s where the entertainment is…” They are also important events where they can normally sell horses on. 

Claire introduces us to Dara her apprentice, and ‘adopted little sister’. They both chat about the horses and Claire laughs that Dara doesn’t like the early starts.  Claire talks emotionally about Bonnie, her latest foal, named at the request of her grandfather before he passed away.  She talks of how the horses are her coping mechanism when times are tough – “They are always there to give you a hug,” she says.

UTV’s Mark McFadden narrates the series. Sponsored by Moy Park, Rare Breed – A Farming Year continues on Tuesday 2^nd March at 7.30pm on UTV.

Kennedy Bacon, the award-winning producer of dry cured bacon in Northern Ireland, is targeting other food manufacturers and caterers with an innovative flake product

Based on a family pig farm near Omagh in county Tyrone, Kennedy Bacon, which has won UK Great Taste and Blas na hEireann Irish Food awards, has developed dry roasted bacon flakes that are ideal for pizzas and sandwich makers throughout the UK and Republic of Ireland.

Mervyn Kennedy, who established the small business on the farm in 2013 and combines the business with his role as a pig farmer, explaining the decision to develop the new dry roasted bacon product, says: “The flake product is a response to increasing interest in ourexisting range of dry cured products from food producers and caterers.

“We’ve identified a range of new business opportunities from pizza and burger toppings, sandwich fillings and salads in particular. While manufacturers and caterers are our primary target, the new flakes are also ideal for home cooks. 

“Our investment in additional production facilities including a sophisticated new oven represents the significant increase in capacity and gives us scope to develop new products and business especially outside Northern Ireland in the Republic of Ireland,” he adds.

The new dry roasted flakes are available in 1kg catering trays and follow the earlier and successful launch of dry cured lardons for chefs and home cooks.

The small company now has an extensive portfolio of award winning bacon and gammon products as well as pork sausages. Mr Kennedy has been producing dry cured bacon products since the 1990s. He set up the bacon business in response to the demand in Tyrone and then from further afield for his artisan products.

He cures all the products by hand and manufacturesthem in a state-of-the-art production operation. He’s also drives the company’s marketing operations.

“I have always had an interest in producing good food and started by curing for individual customers and then went on to bring my product to our local market in Omagh and then on to shows and fairs all over NorthernIreland,” he continues. “I then went on to find farm shops and delicatessens which were keen to stock our products. Now our products can be found in a wide variety of supermarkets and specialist food shops,” he adds.

In addition to supplying Musgrave Group’s SuperValu stores, Kennedy’s bacon products are distributed by Henderson Group, Northern Ireland’s leading wholesale business, to Eurospar supermarkets and most recently to Sainsbury’s supermarkets in the region. The company continues to be the mainstay a key food and farmers’ markets in Northern Ireland.

“We do not over-process our products,” he adds. “We add less salt and no phosphate or water, ensuring our product is the healthiest it can be. Our aim, as a company, is to produce premium and tasty products at competitive prices.”

Papas Minerals, the Northern Ireland specialist in traditional non-alcoholic drinks, has experienced a significant rise in sales in Northern Ireland, Great Britain and the Republic of Ireland during the current pandemic lockdown.

The company, based in Bangor, county Down, and a Food NI member, has also had approaches for its old-fashioned beverages such as ginger wine, including a sugar-free version, as well as cordials with elderflower, clove and spiced winterberry flavours. It also produces a sarsaparilla and a traditional lemonade.

The surge in sales, especially outside Northern Ireland, is the result of an investment by the small artisan business in the latest digital technology for e-commerce.

Wayne Adair, founder of Papas Minerals, explains: “We set up the e- commerce site just before Christmas and ahead of the current pandemic. The decision was influenced by the first lockdown and the closure of the Christmas markets that we take part in such as Belfast St George’s and the Continental, as well as two in Glasgow and Galway. All cancelled along with many other events.”

He continues: “It’s proved to be a wise decision and has driven sales. The additional business in Britain and the Irish Republic has increased our profile in both markets.”

The company has seen its unique ginger wine leading the growth in sales. “As people have to encouraged to order six bottles, they have been choosing a range of minerals in glass bottles which are easily recycled. They’ve also been choosing spiced winterberry, a clove and a peppermint,” adds Wayne.

The company has also seen a rapid growth in digital of its contemporary mixers including its Longbridge branded ginger ale, traditional tonic and raspberry and rose throughout the UK and Irish Republic.

The traditional craft minerals are produced from original recipes without artificial flavours, colours or sweeteners.

Wayne, who founded the award winning craft business in 1999, says the growth, especially in Britain, has also been influenced by increasing interest in traditional products with provenance and heritage.

“We are finding increasingly that people of all ages are looking for different tastes from artisan producers who have total control over their products. Our minerals are all handcrafted and bottled from original recipes and using traceable ingredients. Customers can count on different flavours from consistently high quality non-alcoholic beverages.

Papas Minerals produces its range of soft drinks in 750ml bottles, also hand labelled. 

Antrim based manufacturing firm Golden Popcorn, has won a contract with Aldi in the Republic of Ireland estimated to be worth £500,000. 

The contract was secured following financial and business development support from Invest Northern Ireland and will see Golden Popcorn produce its healthy crisps for Aldi Ireland’s Snackrite brand, which will be on the shelves of over 140 Aldi Ireland stores. 

Sean McClinton, Managing Director of Golden Popcorn, said: “The snack industry has changed dramatically over the last five years as consumers look for healthier alternatives to standard snacks. Healthier snacking doesn’t have to be boring and Aldi Ireland’s new Satin Crunch crisps which will be produced by us certainly fit the bill. We purchased new machinery a number of years ago which has enabled us to develop and add new products to our portfolio and meet the demands from key customers like Aldi.  

“The Republic of Ireland is our main market and this deal is yet another step forward for our business. Invest NI’s business development support has been invaluable in helping us to build relationships with high profile supermarket chains like Aldi Ireland. Its support has assisted us to build our brand and expand our product range to meet the needs of the increasing appetite for healthier snacks. We are optimistic that this deal will be a catalyst for success in other markets.” 

Invest NI offered £45,000 of support towards the purchase of new equipment as well as expert business advice and guidance through a range of virtual meet the buyer events. 

Welcoming Golden Popcorn’s latest success, John Hood, Invest NI’s Director of Food & Drink said: “Golden Popcorn is a highly ambitious SME which is using innovation, new product development and exports to ensure the future sustainability of its business.  This is a winning strategy, which is earning the company a strong reputation in the snack industry and paying dividends in the RoI market. 

“Our team in Invest NI has supported Golden Popcorn over a number of years to expand its business and grow in other markets.  Our introductions to Aldi Ireland, alongside support for new equipment and expert business advice has been a winning combination for the company. This deal represents another great milestone for Golden Popcorn and one which we look forward to supporting the company to build upon.”

The possibility that many of the current Covid-19 restrictions could stretch into the first quarter of next year has understandably revived concerns over the future of our talented hospitality sector. 

Hospitality, other industries and indeed the wider community needs hope that things will change significantly especially when the vaccination programme has been largely completed. We all need something positive to look forward to. The sector needs to know that it has a future, that it’s day will come…and soon.

Top chef and restaurateur Michael Deane, a Taste of Ulster member, was characteristically forthright last week about the prospect of such a lengthy ban on the sector, warning that many of the existing restaurants, cafes and bars may never open again. What sort of hospitality sector are we likely to have to support efforts to regenerate tourism port-pandemic? 

Tourism, of course, is a key economic driver and before the advent of the coronavirus was on target to reach over £1billion. The sector has no idea when it will be allowed to open again for business. And once it does open, it will be reliant on local visitors while public confidence to global travel returns. 

I support Michael, who recently saw the prestigious Michelin star retained at the EIPIC fine dining eatery in Belfast’s Howard Street, and the Bib Gourmand by Deane’s at Queen’s, and endorse his call to the Executive to give hospitality sector,which has invested huge amounts to ensure that the various establishments are safe for customers and staff, a well-deserved ‘break’.

It’s a sector which deserves great praise for its resilience and creativity. While many have sought to keep ticking over by launching call and collect and delivery services from limited menus, others have developed different responses to the crisis. At least three that I know of have introduced province-wider delivery services – Mourne Seafood, Shu and Coppi, all based in Belfast – a costly operation.  

Other encouraging responses include Pier 36 in Donaghadeepackaging its most popular fishes for sale by retailers in the town and nearby Millisle; and Cyprus Avenue, Belfast introducing a novel Corner Shop stocked with local artisan foods, an extremely useful service for smaller producers and shoppers seeking genuinely local food.

Many of those involved in such initiatives are also Taste of Ulster members.

Interestingly, an initiative for redundant chefs and aspiring hospitality entrepreneurs has been developed by two experienced marketers, Ryan Crown and Ema O’Kane, in the novel Hill Street Hatch in Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter, once the city’s hospitality and entertainment hub.

Hill Street Hatch offers individual chefs and entrepreneurs an attractive space in which to create convenience food in particular and sell to the public through the hatch in Hill Street.  It aims to become a food innovation hub which can be used on a short-term basis to try out and develop new ideas.Belfast certainly needs such a hub.

Another interesting project is the Lagan Street Food Market that’s planned for Drumbo Park outside Belfast which will focus on our street food sector.

The sector’s fight for survival merits an action plan from the Executive that will encourage entrepreneurs to get up and running as quickly as practicable when it’s deemed safe to do so.

The main components of such a plan should be action on rates, the long-term retention of VAT at nine percent, speedy implementation of licensing reform and funding to enable companies to get going again. Northern Ireland – and our high streets in particular – needs a vibrant and ambitious hospitality infrastructure.